This jacket is the sum of many iterations of varsity jackets in many styles and has been built ground-up almost entirely custom so that we could get just the effect we wanted. Wool has been swapped out for Japanese indigo sashiko, which remains warm but makes it a lighter, more easy-to-wear jacket, while the collar has been cut from a custom thick ribbing so that it can be worn popped or folded down, shawl-style. Our indigo sashiko is exclusive to us, and is the result of dogged with work three fabric scientists and one of the two original sashiko fabric factories in Japan. We not only set a specific skewed tensions on the loom but deliberately mismatch the volume of thread on the bobbins to achieve a second x-factor that imparts its tremendous character. Green-cast indigo dyed and finished to perfection.

The burgundy version is a little bell-and-whistle'ier: our first ever varsity jacket collaboration. Sub-named "Divided Lives"—this was cooked up with  in Seattle. It is 9L's custom yak leather (with two separate types of oil application) with a proprietary heat-blackened and waxed indigo sashiko body that will crock blue over time. It's complete coursework in "best in class."

• Custom Japanese steer
• Custom hand-dyed indigo sashiko body, 100% cotton
• Custom thick ribbing
• Deep leather lining on the pockets (not just trim)
• Leather tag
• YKK "excella" hardware